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North-west Italy

Piemonte: fog,
fog, and one
very good grape

At the foot of the Alps, where France is a short drive west and the Ligurian coast a short drive south, Piemonte — “foot of the mountain” — is Italy’s most quietly serious wine region. Turin gave the country its first capital; the Langhe hills gave it Barolo and Barbaresco, two of the most collected reds on earth.
This is Nebbiolo country, a grape so fussy it ripens late into the region’s famous autumn fog (the nebbia it’s named for), and so transparent to its soil that two hillsides a few hundred metres apart can taste like entirely different wines. Add truffle-hunting in Alba, vermouth’s birthplace in Turin, and hazelnut groves everywhere, and you’ve got a region built for slow, unhurried appetites.
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the fog and the fruit

The terrain
of Piemonte

Piemonte’s hills are old seabed — Tortonian and Serravallian marls left behind millions of years ago, now folded into the ridgelines of the Langhe and Monferrato. Altitude, aspect and the exact mix of clay, sand and limestone can flip a wine’s character from one vineyard to its neighbour, which is why Piemonte counts its best sites by the hillside rather than the region.

Langhe & Barolo

Elevation: 250–500m · Soil: Tortonian & Helvetian marl · Grapes: Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto

The undisputed heartland — eleven villages, a patchwork of single-vineyard crus, and the grape that turned this fog-bound corner of Piemonte into one of the world’s great fine-wine addresses.

Roero

Elevation: 200–450m · Soil: sandy marl · Grapes: Nebbiolo, Arneis

Nebbiolo’s lighter-footed cousin across the Tanaro river — sandier soils make Roero’s reds softer and earlier-drinking, and give the region’s white grape Arneis room to shine.

Monferrato & Colli Tortonesi

Elevation: 150–400m · Soil: calcareous marl & clay · Grapes: Barbera, Grignolino, Timorasso

Barbera’s home turf, plus Timorasso, a near-extinct white grape brought back from the edge and now one of Piemonte’s most exciting comeback stories.

Winemakers
from the region

Every bottle traceable to one hillside, one family, one harvest.

Piemonte
stories

Food, travel and the odd 48-hour itinerary from the region.
48 Hours in Turin
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Right Up Your Strada
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Piemonte essentials

Where to go
Turin for vermouth and grand cafés, Alba for truffles and the Barolo hills, La Morra for the best Langhe view, Asti for Barbera and its own Palio.
What to eat
Tajarin with white truffle, vitello tonnato, bagna càuda, and hazelnuts in absolutely everything.
What to drink
Barolo and Barbaresco for the big occasions, Barbera and Dolcetto for the table, Arneis and Timorasso for white, vermouth before all of it.
What to read
Nicolas Belfrage, Barolo to Valpolicella: The Wines of Northern Italy.
What to say
“Fa nebbia” — “it’s foggy,” the excuse for staying at the table a little longer.